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Path: bcarh8ab.bnr.ca!bcarh189.bnr.ca!nott!torn!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!convex!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!cs.umd.edu!gun-control From: thomen@ix.netcom.com (Mark Thomen) Newsgroups: rec.guns Subject: Re: Garand Mfgrs and runs Date: 11 Mar 1995 12:55:38 -0500 Organization: Netcom Lines: 28 Sender: magnum@cs.umd.edu Approved: gun-control@cs.umd.edu Message-ID: <3jso6q$p7h@xring.cs.umd.edu> References: <3jralp$nna@xring.cs.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: xring.cs.umd.edu

From "The M1 Garand of World War II - A Guide for the Collector", Scott Duff:

Record of M1 deliveries (shortened for this response):

Breakdown by years/months, serial numbers, etc., are available in that reference.

Mark

P.S. Interesting factoids: Cost for each of 80 tool room models: $1831. Cost per weapon (Springfield) from 1/44-1/45 - $27.

Path: bmerha64.bnr.ca!nmerh207!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!convex!news.duke.edu!eff!cs.umd.edu!mimsy!magnum From: RGIBSON@UA1VM.UA.EDU Newsgroups: rec.guns Subject: M1 Garand Date: 17 Jun 1994 15:40:06 -0400 Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742 Lines: 59 Sender: magnum@cs.umd.edu Approved: gun-control@cs.umd.edu Message-ID: <199406171619.MAA14815@mimsy.cs.UMD.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: xring.cs.umd.edu

Subject: M1 GARAND - Brief History and How to Field Strip for Cleaning.

The M1 GARAND is a full blown combat rifle with maxiumum range of 3,200 meters and maxiumum effective range of 400 meters.....or the greatest distance at which the weapon can be expected to fire accurately to inflict casualties or damage. Fully loaded with 8-round en bloc clip, cleaning kit in butt stock, sling and with stock of dense GI issue wood the M1 weighed in at 11-1/4 lbs. The M1 Garand came into production in 1936 using the .30-06 rifle cartridge.

As a supplement to the Garand the M1 Carbine was developed. It was totally different design philosophy with a smaller, less powerful cartridge and an effective range of 300 yds max. It weighed almost exactly 1/2 that of the M1 Garand. In many ways you could think of the M1 Carbine as a moderately powerful, two-handed, long-barreled auto pistol with a shoulder stock.

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Publications to support M1 Garand:
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You need to get FM 23-5 and TM 9-1005-222-12 next time you're at a gunshow. Look around for publication locations, they'll have 'em for between $5-$10. Also check thru _Shot Gun News_, they are available from various sources.

Here it is in the military routine, just like basic training circa 1952:

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Disassembly into the Three Main Groups:
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A. The three main groups are the trigger housing group, the barrel and receiver group and the stock group.

B. To disassemble the rifle into the three main groups, first insure that the weapon is clear and then allow the bolt to go forward by depressing the follower with the right thumb and allowing the bolt to ride forward over the follower assembly. .

C. Place the rifle butt against the left thigh, sights to the left. With the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, pull downward and outward on the rear of the trigger guard. Swing the trigger guard out as far as it will go and lift out the trigger housing group.

D. To separate the barrel and receiver from the stock lay the weapon on a flat surface with the sights up, muzzle to the left. With the left hand, grasp the rear of the receiver and raise the rifle. With the right hand, give a downward blow, grasping the small of the stock. This will separate the stock group from the barrel and receiver group.

That's it....verbatum from FM 23-5 U.S. Rifle Caliber .30, M1. Very simple and straight forward to do. The older or "looser" the M1, the easier it is to field strip...a nicely refurbished M1 can be a bear to get loose....I've seen a few that needed a rubber mallet to pop loose in step D. If it takes it, pop it a good one.....the M1 is a robust weapon, you can't hurt it.

Path: bcarh8ab.bnr.ca!bcarh189.bnr.ca!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!news.umbc.edu!cs.umd.edu!gun-control From: bartb@hpfcla.fc.hp.com (Bart Bobbit) Newsgroups: rec.guns Subject: Re: Garand Sight Markings Date: 5 Jan 1995 11:56:53 -0500 Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site Lines: 40 Sender: magnum@cs.umd.edu Approved: gun-control@cs.umd.edu Message-ID: <3egsr6$9fk@tadpole.fc.hp.com> References: <3eemr5$eq0@anchor.cc.umb.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: xring.cs.umd.edu

On M1 rear sights, the elevation knob is marked in hundreds of yards. The `2' means 200 yards, the 6 is for 600 yards and so on. Each click is worth one MOA.

The windage marks on the receiver are worth 4 MOA per mark. Each click is worth one MOA.

Here's how you `zero' the rear sight:

1. Turn the windage knob until the vertical line on the sight base centers on the middle line on the receiver. The sight is now at mechanical windage zero.

2. Turn the elevation knob counter clockwise until it bottoms. Then raise it about 8 clicks.

3. Shoot the rifle at 200 yards.

a. Adjust windage by loosening the front sight with a 3/16ths inch hex wrench, then move it opposite the direction you want the group to move; don't forget to tighten it down. You may have to make several adjustments to get it right.

b. Adjust elevation by turning the knob.

c. Be sure you have a good sight setting to center your group on the target.

4. Without moving the elevation slide that has the aperture in it, loosen the screw in the elevation knob, then move the elevation knob until the `2' aligns with the mark on the sight. Then tighten the elevation knob screw.

This should `zero' the sight. You can now set the elevation knob to what ever range you'll shoot at and be real close.


Path: bmerha64.bnr.ca!bcarh8ab.bnr.ca!bcarh189.bnr.ca!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!bcm!convex!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!mimsy!magnum From: RGIBSON@UA1VM.UA.EDU Newsgroups: rec.guns Subject: reload for M1 garand Date: 30 Sep 1994 14:51:01 -0400 Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742 Lines: 98 Sender: magnum@cs.umd.edu Approved: gun-control@cs.umd.edu Message-ID: <199409291944.PAA15503@mimsy.cs.UMD.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: xring.cs.umd.edu

RELOADING TIPS for the Cal .30 M1 Garand

Here is the straight dope as published by the National Rifle Association of America in their book entitled _THE M1 RIFLE_.....read and heed!

QUESTION: I want to reload ammunition for my M1 Rifle. Other shooters tell me to be careful in my selection of components for the incorrect ones can damage the rifle. What should I choose? What should I avoid? Why?

ANSWER: The warnings you have been given are good ones. Though it is a rugged piece of equipment, the M1 Rifle has an "Achilles heel": its long, slender operating rod. Operating rods can be bent to the point of useless- ness if continually subjected to propellent gas pressures that are too high. Such too-high pressures are usually the result of either too-heavy bullets or too-slow burning powder, or both. In military service, over the several decades that the M1 was either our primary or an important secondary arm, this potential fragility of the operating rod was not a problem. Ammunition for the rifle was developed and loaded that did not cause overly high pres- sure to be exerted against the operating rod, and so did not damage it.

Handloaders, however, can choose combinations of components that will cause damage. For best results, use powders faster than IMR 4320, and bullets of 180 grains weight, or lighter. Suggested loading data for .30-'06 ammunition in M1 Rifles follows:

147/150-gr. bullets - either FMJ or HPBT

165/168-gr. bullets - either SP, HP, or FMJ

173/175-gr. bullets - M72 or M118

180-gr. bullets - either SP, HP, or FMJ

Herc RE-12 41.5 grs.

The charges listed are meant to approximate the performance of military ammunition using commercial reloading components, including cases. In no circumstance should any charge weight be increased. If military surplus cases are used, charges should be reduced by 1.5 grs. to start. Loads using tubular-grained powders such as IMR propellants do well if primed with con- ventional large rifle primers (Federal, CCI or Remington). Loads using powders such as BL-C2, AA2460 or AA2520 and Win. "Ball" are best primed with Winchester's WLR primer or possibly a "magnum" primer from another component manufacturer.


On a personal note let me add that IMHO firing any commercial soft point "hunting load" currently in production by the various manufacturers would be acceptable in the M1 Rifle....providing that the bullet weight doesn't exceed the 180 grain maximum *AND* that the commercial cartridge isn't one of the high performance rounds recently coming into production. An example is the HORNADY .30-'06 LIGHT MAGNUM cartridge.....these newest generation factory "hot loads" should be used in bolt or lever action rifles only..... *NEVER* in your prized M1. BTW, do people actually hunt with an M1 Garand?

The last paragraph is just my opinion.......your milage may vary.